Students in my B&W class need to have a manual 35mm film camera with a standard lens.
That means your camera must have:
- A camera body
- A standard lens that fits the body
- Working light meter
- Manual focus control
- Manual aperture control
- Manual shutter control
- A lens cap and strap
I know that it sounds confusing now, but soon you'll find it really isn't that hard to understand.
Lets start with the camera body and lens.
If you buy a camera as a "kit" then it should come complete and ready to use. Sometimes you will want to buy the camera body separately from the lens. If that's the case, you need to make sure the lens will work on that body. Each brand has a specific way of fitting lenses. Doing a little research can help, but it's best to ask a salesperson to help you.
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The camera body may be sold separately from the lens. |
When you choose a lens make sure you get a normal, or standard, lens. That means, the lens gives an average, or normal, angle of view that is similar to human vision. This is usually a 50mm size lens or something close. Anything from 45-55 would be pretty normal.
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The lens size is often printed on the front. This one is 50mm. |
What you don't want is to be stuck with a super wide angle of view for
all your pictures, nor do you want to be stuck with a long telephoto lens for
all your pictures. A wide angle lens has a smaller number, a telephoto has a very large number.
Those lenses can be fun, but you want to have a normal option too. You can actually enjoy all those lenses in one if you choose a zoom lens, such as a 28-75mm. Since 50mm is within the range of 28-75, you'll still be able to create a normal angle of view.
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This lens is a 28mm. |
Okay, so what about those other things?
A light meter is very important. Without it, you will not be able to accurately expose your film. It is very rare to see a 35mm camera that doesn't have one (unless its a really old camera). Just make sure that it's still working and that the batteries are new (ask a salesperson for help finding the right battery).
"Manual focus control" simply means that you can control where the picture is focused. That's usually a ring on the lens that turns and changes the focus distance. Sometimes, a switch on the lens changes the focus from automatic to manual control.
"Manual aperture control" is a little more complicated, but we'll talk about it in class during week 2. Basically, this control changes the brightness of light that enters the camera lens. Most older cameras have this control on the lens, in a ring marked with small numbers like: 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. Newer cameras often show these numbers in a data panel.
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Take note of these numbers, you'll need to remember them. |
"Manual shutter control" means that you have a way to control how long it takes to record an image. This control is usually on the camera body or data panel and shows fractions of seconds. We'll talk more about this in week 2.
Also regarding these controls, you need to be able to choose the exposure manually. That means you will not be using aperture priority, or shutter priority functions (these are not manual settings, they are semi-automatic settings). You will only be using fully manual settings where you select the camera settings yourself.
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This data panel shows "M" mode for manual. |
Can I borrow a camera?
The school has a
very limited number of cameras to loan out. Sometimes there are not enough to go around, so please try to get a camera on your own.
Borrowing from a family member can be a great option. You'd be surprised at how many parents and grandparents have old cameras tucked away in attics. I bet they'd love to spend some time with you talking about photography. They might even show you some cool photographs they made in college.
While borrowing is great, do not try to share a camera with another person. I've seen students attempt this and it simply didn't work.
Where can I buy a camera?
For a list of recommended places to shop, check out my other blog post:
resources & rental labs
Can you recommend a camera?
No, I don't usually recommend a single camera. There's lots of cameras that will work.
It doesn't need to be complicated or have lots of special functions. Simple is often better!
It also doesn't need to be new or expensive. There are many basic models out there and lots of very good used ones. Just make sure it works properly and has all the functions listed above.
Below are some options recommended by myself and my colleagues. I've added some links so you can see what the camera is like, but that doesn't mean that it's the best price. I
did not shop around!
New Cameras
Used Cameras
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My trusty Pentax K1000.
I bought it new more than 20 years ago and it still works perfectly. |
There's really too many to mention that will work just fine … hundreds … thousands!
When in doubt, just bring your supply list to the store, and ask a salesperson to help you figure out if it has all the options you need.
My final piece of advice: simple is better.
It's easier to learn on a basic model than one that has 100 new functions to figure out.
You also don't need to buy the most expensive camera because (if you're anything like me) you will want another camera, and another camera, and another…
Pretty soon, you'll have dozens of cameras, so you can choose the best one for each job.
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I like old cameras too. Here's a small number from my collection. |